HONG KONG – The F&B industry is a volatile space, where anyone could get cut or worse, stabbed in the back, before knowing it. In Windmill Grass Theatre Company’s latest production, The Restaurant, the Hong Kong theatre company reveals just how brutal things can get behind the scenes of a high-end fine dining establishment. Written and directed by Edmond Tong, this Cantonese production dives into the intricate dynamics of restaurant staff, office politics, and personal ambitions, all simmering under the watchful eye of a meticulous manager.

Set in one of Hong Kong’s hottest Michelin-starred restaurants, The Restaurant introduces us to Leo, a charming new sommelier whose arrival stirs the pot. He quickly forms a bond with Joel, the eager Assistant Manager, but their budding camaraderie does not go unnoticed by Luna, the formidable Restaurant Manager. Luna’s character is a standout—dressed in a classic black suit and white shirt, she commands the stage with her quiet authority, always a step ahead of her subordinates. Her sharp gaze and no-nonsense demeanour ensure that nothing escapes her notice.

The set design deserves special mention, with luxurious and classy burgundy wood furnishings, and dimly lit lamps evoking an ambiance of refined elegance, making the audience feel like they are part of the restaurant’s rich clientele at an exclusive table. There is a clear hierarchy of power present in the restaurant, with the tables acting as a secondary stage; those at the top look down upon those still climbing their way up. This clever staging heightens the tension between the characters, transforming the restaurant into a battleground for control as they wrest for power. The centrepiece also happens to be a large table in dark wood, its cold demeanour making the stage resemble a court of law, symbolising both power and division. Also, a unique and thoughtful touch is the way latecomers are handled. During set changes, the house lights are dimly raised, allowing patrons to find their seats without disrupting the performance. This small but significant detail reflects the company’s meticulous approach to the overall theatre experience.

Tong’s direction shines in the way the characters are introduced. The opening sequence is accompanied by energetic EDM music, setting a lively tone as each character makes their entrance. The restaurant team is introduced one by one, with particular emphasis on Leo’s arrival; young, good-looking, and charming, Leo immediately becomes a hot topic among the staff, especially among the younger waitresses who are clearly enamoured with him.

Throughout the play, the restaurant’s operations are depicted with authenticity—from menu briefings to wine pairings. A particularly engaging moment shows the staff discussing whether to push the tasting menu or focus on à la carte orders. There’s even a briefing on which wines to promote, reflecting the real-life pressures of fine dining service. Another standout moment involves the sommelier team gathering around a crate of wine as part of their preparations for the Christmas season. Appropriately enough, considering the performance took place in December, the festive atmosphere is further enhanced as the restaurant undergoes a Christmas makeover, complete with a grand tree and ornaments. The staff, dressed in their spiffy best, gather for a team briefing before the holiday service begins. The contrast between the restaurant’s glamorous appearance and the underlying staff tensions becomes even more apparent as the story progresses.

As the plot unfolds, tensions rise. Luna and Joel find themselves at odds, each vying for control of the restaurant. Meanwhile, Rita, a privileged outsider with plans to open a rival establishment, arrives on scene. She subtly begins to poach staff from the restaurant, adding fuel to the already simmering conflict. In a climactic moment, Joel uncorks a symbolic bottle of wine, signalling a significant turning point. Dominic, another key character, intensifies the tension by counting down from ten, creating a sense of impending mutiny. This dramatic sequence evokes the suspense of a high-stakes showdown, reminiscent of a tension-filled episode straight out of Iron Chef.

The production’s pacing is well-balanced, with moments of levity interspersed with high-stakes drama. One poignant scene shows Luna overwhelmed by the pressures of her role. As she collapses to her knees, the emotional toll of leadership becomes starkly evident. It is a play that captures the harsh reality of managing a team that feels like family but often behaves like adversaries, and how difficult it can be to navigate those boundaries and relationships.

The final act is both melancholic and reflective, as the restaurant prepares to close for the night, Luna methodically places chairs on the table, representing the end of an era. Joel joins her, and together they reminisce about the good times shared within those walls. The imagery is powerful—chairs being placed upside down, cloths draped over them, and the once-bustling restaurant now silent and empty. Meanwhile, Leo sits alone at the table, contemplating his future. Joel approaches him, and the two share a quiet moment, reflecting on their journey, one of friendship and love, in this place they first met and took a photo together.

The play ends on an open-ended note, with Joel and Luna left standing on stage, their future uncertain. As they look around the restaurant one last time, Luna indicating to go, the two of them continue to linger, and the audience is left to ponder what might come next. It’s a poignant reminder of the transient nature of the industry—people come, people go, but the memories live on, to reminisce over both the good times and the bad. Showcasing mastery over their understanding of well-paced storytelling, sharp dialogue, well-thought out staging and compelling performances, The Restaurant offers a rare glimpse into the inner workings of a fine dining restaurant while exploring universal themes of ambition, loyalty, and the folly of human relationships. A play that both foodies and theatre connoisseurs are sure to enjoy, deserving of a Michelin star.

Photo Credit: snap_shot_sammy

The Restaurant played from 28th November 2024 to 8th December 2024 at Kwai Tsing Theatre. More information available here